Sunday, 3 May 2009

Feria de Abril


Along with Semana Santa, Feria de Abril (April Fair) is one of my two favorite weeks in Sevilla. Feria is a celebration of spring and the coming of summer. Typically, it takes place two weeks after Semana Santa and will be your second of two weeks off school. Essentially, a small city of private tents (casetas) is constructed on the fairgrounds along with a huge area for your typical fair games, rides, and attractions. All the streets are named after bullfighters and are lined with lights and paper lanterns. At the main entrance of the fair grounds a giant gate is constructed covered with lights. The fair begins at midnight of Monday-Tuesday with the lighting of the puerta and continues non-stop (literally) until Sunday at midnight with the firework conclusion.

Feria as we know it today originally began in the 1840s, however, it is said to have an even longer history. It began as a cattle fair which was located in the park near the Prado San Sabastian bus station. Slowly the purchasing or cattle became a less important factor in the fair but the eating, drinking, dancing, and music remained. As the fair grew in size, it needed more spance and moved to it's current location in Los Remedios.

Feria is an extremely fascinating event because of the tradition of the event. To this day, women still dress in flamenco dresses and Men wear suits and ties. During the day, men and women, dress in typical Spanish horse riding clothes and ride their horses or in carriages throughout the fairgrounds. Throughout the fair you can find the locals dancing and singing Sevillana which looks and sounds like flamenco to an untrained observer. Locals will be quick to correct you if you call it "flamenco" because Sevillana is different. I would highly recommend trying to learn the basics of Sevillana before the fair. In my experience, I was dragged out onto the dance floor numerous times.

For Feria, you will be greatly rewarded if you have made friends with a few Spaniards because the fair is more fun if you have someone who knows the ropes. Otherwise you will end up wandering around aimlessly and never quite get the real experience of the fair. If you're lucky one of your friends may invite you to a private caseta which are closed to the general public. Most casetas are rented by families, private groups, or companies. Having a caseta is a sign of money and a way for wealthy families to entertain their guests.

Being inside a caseta is the best way to experience feria because typically the family invites all their relatives and close friends to the caseta and it's incredible to be able to see them sing, dance, eat, and drink in celebration together. The casetas usually have a front room with tables and chairs and a dance floor and many times a live band playing Sevillana. In the back there is a bar that serves food and drinks as well as bathrooms. The etiquette of casetas is something I still don't completely understand, but I will give you my inexpert advice. If you get invited, don't bring along friends with you without asking first. Also be prepared to pay a little for food or drink if your host asks you and it might be a good idea just to go ahead and offer to pay for a round of tapas or drinks at some point in the night.

It's difficult to explain how incredible of an experience Feria can be if you have made some close friendships with Spaniards. The fair will take place towards the end of the semester which will allow you time to make friends. I can't reinforce enough how important it is to find a language speaking partner and to make new friends in Spain because quality of your study abroad experience will increase exponentially. The people I have met in Spain have made my experience so much better than other students who use study abroad for only partying and traveling. Getting to experience the most prized celebration in Sevilla with my Spanish friends has been the highlight of my trip.

Saturday, 2 May 2009

Tapas


The concept of Tapas is something most people are curious about when they arrive in Spain. Tapas are, in fact, one of my favorite things about Spanish cuisine. So here's the brief rundown on the history and origin of tapas that I found in my guidebook:

"Medieval Spain was a land of isolated settlements and people on the move-traders, pilgrims, emigrants and journeyman - who had to cross the lonely high plateau of Spain en route elsewhere. All along the route, travellers holed up in isolated inns where innkeepers, concerned about drunken men on horseback setting out from their village, developed a tradition of putting a 'lid' (tapa) atop a glass of wine or beer. their purpose was partly to keep the bugs out, but primarily to encourage people not to drink too much on and empty stomach.

In this sense, little has changed and the tapa continues to serve the dual purposes of providing enjoyment and a lid to enable you to develop new levels of stamina during long Spanish nights." - Lonely Planet Spain

On Friday and Saturday nights, it is not uncommon to for Spaniards to go out for tapas around 10 or 11 PM. Many times Spaniards will only eat tapas for dinner instead of sitting down for a meal at a restaurant. The best part about tapas is that it encourages a long dinner with much conversation. Tapas are not all brought at once and instead of eating your meal and getting ready to go, tapas allow for conversation as you graze the food and wait for the next round.

Friday, 1 May 2009

What not to miss in Sevilla


Here I have compiled some advice and tips that I've gathered about what to see and do during your time in Sevilla:
  • See Semana Santa and Feria de Abril. Resist the temptation to book a 10 day trip during each of your two weeks off in the spring. These two weeks are arguably the best two weeks in Sevilla and in my opinion, it would be a shame to miss either of these. I would recommend traveling the first part of the week and returning to Sevilla by Wednesday so you can take advantage of all the festivities.
  • Rent a Sevici and go for a bike ride along the Guadalquivir
  • Head to Plaza Salvador beginning around 10 PM and hang out in the plaza filled with locals eating and drinking al fresco.
  • Go to a bullfight in the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza. This is one of the top three bullfighting rings in all of Spain. Bullfighting is a controversial issue in Spain right now but it has been a part of Spanish culture for hundreds of years and is worth a look.
  • Climb to the top of the Giralda inside the cathedral and explore and the tomb of Christopher Columbus
  • Visit the Real Alcazar
  • Get lost in Barrio Cruz
  • Go for tapas and a drink in Plaza Alfalfa
  • Experience a flamenco show at a local tablao or opt for a cheaper show by attending a free show at La Carboneria in Santa Cruz. There are also many bars in Triana that have free flamenco shows though without dancing (Tertulia or Lo Nuestro are good spots).
  • Attend a soccer game of either of the two teams: Sevilla FC or Real Betis. The experience is one of a kind and unlike any sporting event in the US
  • Browse one of the many open air markets in Sevilla, also known as Gypsy Markets
  • Spend the afternoon relaxing in the grass by the river with the locals

Thursday, 30 April 2009

Spanish Food

When coming to Spain, be ready for an incredible culinary experience. Spain has so much to offer in it's cuisine as each region of Spain has it's own local specialties. A menu in Andalucia would look entirely different than a menu in Galicia. The diet in Spain is much different than in the United States. I think it is safe to say it is much heathier as well.

Olive oil is used in most cooking and it is also a substitute for butter on bread. To be perfectly honest, Spaniards don't find many foods unworthy of a little olive oil to add some extra flavor. Olive oil is a staple of Spain and they pride themselves on having the best olive oil in the world. Any trip by bus or train to the countryside would give evidence to the many olive oil groves in Spain.

You can expect to find beans and legumes (garbanzo beans and lentils especially) in many Spanish dishes, especially soups. Another common dish is garbanzo beans and spinach which is often served as a tapa.

Another Spanish staple that is viewed with great pride is Jamon Serrano. Essentially, it is just smoked ham and is usually served on bread with olive oil. In most tapas bars the pig legs are actually hanging from the ceiling.

Great pride is also taken in the wine of Spain. Wine can be found at very reasonable prices. The region Rioja is typically a mark on quality as it is one of the better wine regions in Spain. You can get a nice bottle of wine from this region for less than 3 euro.

A major difference of Spanish meals is the time they're served. Lunch is typically served around 2:30 and dinner never begins earlier than 9:00. Tapas function both as an in-between-meal snack or a full mean in itself. On the weekends, many Spaniards go out for tapas as late as 11 at night before heading out to the bars. Breakfast is not an important meal in Spain. Most Spaniards have coffee and toast for breakfast at a bar (yes, bars double as cafes and restaurants during the daytime) on the way to work.

Wednesday, 29 April 2009

Camino de Santiago


Next week, I will embark on a pilgrimage across 120km of northern Spain called Camino de Santiago (The Way of St. James). The entire length of the pilgrimage is actually about 780 km and would take at least a month. Because I am short on time and money my plan is to experience the final leg of the pilgrimage in five days.

The Camino de Santiago began in the medieval ages when the remains of Santiago (St. James) were allegedly discovered in the town of Compestela. According to the legend, his remains were carried by a boat guided by angels from Jerusalem to Northern Spain where they came to rest in Compestela. As a result, hundreds of thousands of people from across Europe began making the journey to Compestela to see the remains. Because of this religious pilgrimage, the economy of northern Spain exploded as it became more and more populated. After over 1000 years, the Camino is still a religious pilgrimage experienced by many.

If you're interested in doing the Camino, I would recommend stopping by the office in Sevilla. It is located in Triana on San Jacinto 25. Go through the iron gates into the little patio behind and look for Portal 6. Here you will find the office. It is open from 7-9 PM and is run by volunteers who are very informed and willing to help you plan your trip.

If you plan on doing the Camino, plan on doing at least 100 km. By traveling at least 100 km you are able to recieve a certificate which you can have stamped at each church you pass along the camino and more importantly it allows you to stay in albergues. Albergues are essentially hostels which are available to only to pilgrims. These albergues range in quality and price but many are as low as 4 Euro and as high as 10 Euro. This makes the trip very affordable.

You can begin and end the Camino from any location and it can be done any time of year. There is no set time. Some Spaniards I have talked to take a week off each year and do a different segment of the Camino until they have done the entire route.

Our plan is to fly into Santiago de Compestela and then take a bus out to the town of Sarria and then hike back to catch our flight.

If you're interested make sure you check out the office in Triana and also look at the website below. Good luck!

http://www.caminodesantiago.me.uk/

Tuesday, 28 April 2009

Barcelona



Barcelona is one of the top destinations in Spain for most students studying abroad. There is so much to see that at first the city seems overwhelming. I will try to attempt to narrow down some of the basics.

The sights:
  • La Sagrada Familia: Gaudi's architectural masterpiece. This church which began construction over 100 years ago is still not complete. This is a MUST SEE because unlike most other churches which more or less look the same, Gaudi has created a cathedral that is in a league of its own.
  • Be sure to walk by Gaudi's other works because his architecture will not disappoint: Casa Batllo, La Pedrera and Park Guell. If you're on a budget, Park Guell is the best free attraction in Barcelona. This park is situated on a hill overlooking the entire city. Make the extra effort to climb the stairs all the way to the top and you'll be rewarded with the best views of the city.
  • Get lost walking around in the Barri Gothic and Born neighborhoods. It's pretty incredible what you will stumble upon just wandering around.
  • Visit the Pablo Picasso museum. Free on Sundays
  • Explore Montjuic. This hill overlooking the ocean has a castle on top, as well as numerous museums and parks. This was also the site of the 1992 Summer Olympics. The Olympic Stadium is free and there is a great museum for only 2.50 Euros. Additionally make sure you finish this excursion by heading to Placa D'Espanya to watch La Font Magica which is a fountain light show timed to music each night.
  • Take a stroll down La Rambla, which is a hub of Barcelona with countless street performers, restaurants, and shops.
  • Watch the surfers, kite boarders, swimmers, and sunbathers along the beach at Barceloneta. Be sure to stop by Port Olympic where you will find a great variety of restaurants, bars, and discotecas along the beach.
NOTE: Don't forget to watch out for pick pockets. There is no need to be afraid of thieves in Barcelona as long as you exercise caution during your time there. When in large crowds or riding public transportation keep your hands in your pockets and your purses or backpacks in front of you. Simply being aware of your surroundings will send a signal to pick pockets that you are not the easy target they're looking for.

Transportation to Barcelona:
I would recommend booking a flight through Vueling Airlines. This airline is the cheapest and best airline to get anywhere in Spain. Unlike RyanAir, Vueling will fly directly into Barcelona's airport instead of the airports and hour outside of town (Girona and Reus). Be careful when booking your flight to Barcelona because if you fly in to GRO or REU then you will have to catch an hour long bus into town that will cost you about 10 additional Euros. From the Barcelona airport there is a bus that will take your right to the center of town. If you get off at the centrally located Placa de Catalunya, there is a tourist booth where you can get a map and directions to your hotel or hostel.

I find the Catalan culture particular interesting and the views they have of the rest of Spain, as well as the views other Spaniards have of Catalan. Barcelona being a part of Catalan for the most part wants to be considered a separate nation. They are proud of their culture which is very different than other parts of Spain and they even speak a different language. This creates quite a controversy among most Spaniards and they won't be afraid to express their opinions.
Overall, Barcelona is a sight to see. Don't miss it.

Friday, 24 April 2009

Study Spots

Finding a good place to study in Sevilla can be a little frustrating at unless you know where to look. Oddly enough, I think most of us studying here have missed Mary Couts Library at one point or another. I've created a Google map to help aide in finding a place to get some work done. Hope it helps.


View Study Spots in a larger map